How to Clean Watercolor Brushes
Proper cleaning is the single best thing you can do to extend the life of your watercolor brushes. Learn the daily routine, deep-cleaning techniques, and mistakes to avoid.
Why Brush Cleaning Matters
Watercolor pigments are finely ground mineral or synthetic particles suspended in a binder. When you paint, these particles settle deep into the brush fibers. Left uncleaned, the pigment dries and hardens, gradually stiffening the bristles, spreading the fibers apart, and destroying the brush's ability to hold a point or retain water.
A quality brush that is cleaned properly after every session can last one to three years of regular use — sometimes longer. The same brush neglected can lose its performance within weeks. Given that a good brush costs $10 to $40 or more, proper cleaning is also the most cost-effective habit you can develop as a watercolorist.
Natural hair brushes (kolinsky sable, squirrel) are particularly sensitive to neglect because the fibers contain natural oils that keep them supple. Dried pigment and soap residue can strip these oils over time. Synthetic brushes are more forgiving but still suffer from accumulated pigment and improper storage.
Daily Cleaning Steps
Follow these four steps after every painting session. The entire process takes less than two minutes.
Rinse in Clean Water
Immediately after painting, swirl the brush gently in a jar of clean water. Replace the water if it becomes heavily pigmented. Continue rinsing until the water runs clear. Avoid pressing the bristles against the bottom of the jar — this bends the fibers and can damage the tip.
Remove Residual Pigment
After the initial rinse, gently stroke the brush across your palm under running lukewarm water. This helps release pigment that has settled deep in the belly of the brush. You will be surprised how much color comes out even after the jar water appears clear.
Reshape the Tip
While the brush is still damp, use your fingers to gently reshape the bristles into their original form — a point for rounds, a flat edge for flats. This step is critical: the fibers have memory, and reshaping while wet trains them to return to the correct shape.
Dry Properly
Lay the brush flat on a towel or stand it upright in a jar with the bristles pointing up. Never stand a brush tip-down, which bends the fibers and allows water to seep into the ferrule. Allow the brush to dry completely before storing it in a case or roll.
Deep Cleaning (Every 5 – 10 Sessions)
Routine rinsing removes most pigment, but staining colors and dried residue build up over time. A periodic deep clean with brush soap keeps your brushes in peak condition.
Wet the Brush
Dampen the bristles with lukewarm water. Avoid hot water, which can soften the glue that holds the ferrule to the handle and damage natural hair fibers.
Apply Brush Soap
Swirl the damp brush gently across a bar of brush soap or apply a small drop of liquid brush cleaner to the bristles. Work the soap into the fibers using gentle circular motions on your palm.
Lather and Massage
Continue working the soap through the bristles. You will see pigment release into the lather — staining pigments like phthalo blue, quinacridone rose, and dioxazine purple may take several rounds. Keep going until the lather is clean.
Rinse Thoroughly
Rinse the brush under lukewarm running water until all soap residue is gone. Soap left in the bristles can affect paint behavior in your next session.
Condition (Optional)
For natural hair brushes (kolinsky sable, squirrel), apply a tiny amount of brush conditioner or hair conditioner. This restores the oils that keep natural fibers supple and extends the life of premium brushes.
Reshape and Dry
Reshape the tip carefully and lay the brush flat or stand it bristle-up to dry. For natural hair brushes, some artists leave a light coat of brush soap in the bristles for storage (rinse before next use) to help maintain shape.
Common Cleaning Mistakes
Avoiding these mistakes is just as important as following the right steps. Each one can shorten your brush's lifespan significantly.
Leaving Brushes in Water
CriticalThis is the number one brush killer. Standing a brush tip-down in a water jar — even for a few minutes — bends the fibers permanently, loosens the ferrule glue, and swells the handle. Always lay brushes flat between strokes.
Using Hot Water
HighHot water softens the adhesive that bonds the ferrule to the handle and can damage natural hair fibers. Always use lukewarm or cool water for cleaning.
Scrubbing Against Hard Surfaces
HighPressing brush bristles hard against the bottom of a jar, a palette, or a rag damages the fibers and destroys the tip. Use gentle swirling motions and clean with your palm.
Using Brushes with Masking Fluid
CriticalMasking fluid (liquid frisket) dries into rubber and bonds to brush fibers. Even careful rinsing often cannot remove it completely, ruining the brush. Use a cheap, dedicated brush or a silicone tool for masking.
Storing Brushes Wet in a Case
MediumSealing damp brushes in a roll or case creates a moist environment that breeds mildew and weakens natural fibers. Always allow brushes to dry completely before storing them in enclosed containers.
Neglecting to Reshape
MediumFailing to reshape the tip after washing leads to fibers drying in random directions. Over time, the brush loses its point and belly shape permanently. Take three seconds to reshape every time.
Recommended Cleaning Products
You do not need many products to keep your brushes clean. Here are the ones we trust after years of studio use.
The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver
Brush soap (solid)The industry standard for brush cleaning. This solid soap cleans, conditions, and helps preserve brush shape. Effective on all fiber types and safe for natural hair. A single jar lasts months of regular use.
Da Vinci Brush Soap
Brush soap (solid)A German-made brush soap designed specifically for watercolor brushes. Gentle on natural fibers and effective at removing staining pigments. Leaves brushes soft and well-conditioned.
Ivory Bar Soap (or any gentle bar soap)
Household soapIn a pinch, a gentle unscented bar soap works well for basic brush cleaning. It lacks the conditioning agents of dedicated brush soaps but is perfectly adequate for synthetic brushes and routine cleaning.
Pink Soap by Speedball
Liquid brush cleanerA liquid cleaner that works well for removing stubborn, dried-on pigment. Especially useful for synthetic brushes and for rescuing brushes that have been neglected. Use sparingly on natural hair.
Storage After Cleaning
How you store your brushes after cleaning is just as important as the cleaning itself. Follow these guidelines to keep your brushes in top shape between sessions.
Upright in a Jar (Tip Up)
The most common studio storage method. Place clean, dry brushes tip-up in a wide-mouth jar. The weight of the handle keeps the brush stable, and the bristles are protected from contact with surfaces. Ideal for everyday use.
Flat on a Surface
Laying brushes flat on a shelf or in a shallow tray is perfectly fine, especially during the drying phase. This prevents water from seeping into the ferrule. Good for both studio and travel.
Brush Roll or Case
Canvas or bamboo brush rolls are ideal for travel and long-term storage. Make sure brushes are completely dry before rolling them up. Look for rolls with individual slots to prevent bristles from pressing against each other.
What to Avoid
Never store brushes tip-down in a container. Never seal damp brushes in a closed case. Avoid storing in direct sunlight or extreme heat, which can degrade handle finishes and weaken adhesives.
Quick Reference: Brush Care Cheat Sheet
| When | What to Do |
|---|---|
| After every session | Rinse in clean water, remove residual pigment, reshape, and dry |
| Every 5 – 10 sessions | Deep clean with brush soap, condition natural hair brushes |
| Before long-term storage | Deep clean, fully dry, store in brush roll or upright in jar |
| If you notice stiffness | Soak briefly in lukewarm water, then deep clean with soap |
| If the point is lost | Deep clean, reshape with soap coating overnight, rinse before use |
| Never | Leave in water, use hot water, use with masking fluid, scrub hard surfaces |
Explore More Brush Guides
Learn everything about choosing the right brushes and keeping them in perfect condition.
BWB Editorial Team
Watercolor Brush Reviewers
The Best Watercolor Brushes editorial team has collectively tested over 200 watercolor brushes across 1,000+ painting sessions. Our reviews combine hands-on studio testing with feedback from professional watercolor artists, art educators, and passionate hobbyists. Every brush is evaluated using our standardized 5-criteria scoring system before it earns a recommendation.
- Tested 200+ watercolor brushes hands-on
- Standardized 5-criteria scoring system
- Feedback from professional watercolor artists
- Regular brush longevity re-testing